When we arrived at Mother, an atmospheric archway full of beautiful bespoke furniture, with tables as long as the tree is tall, we were greeted by David Biffani, (he and Nick Pound are the co-owners), and I became aware that this was going be unlike any review I had done before.
The table was laid for four, which was odd, as there was only two of us, The Bearded one and myself.
David sat down with us, and ordered a spectacular array of starters including the vegetarian antipasto miso with focaccia, prosciutto, (which was deliciously salty and succulent), affettati misti (mixed Italian charcuterie) and a couple of others.
Each dish was full to the brim with unique and delicate flavours, even the baccala fritto (deep fried battered salted cod) was airy and light.
My favourite dish was the baked ‘tortino’ of courgettes and gorgonzola. A fluffy tart of cheese and courgette. Needless to say, there wasn’t much left for the rest of the table.
Thoughout this journey of starters and the combination of flavours, David introduced us to a selection of biodynamic wines. No-headache he assured us.
One of the pleasures of biodynamic wines is that it’s completely void of chemicals. It changes dramatically with every mouthful as it reacts, whilst in the glass, to the surrounding air. It was simply gorgeous.
By the time the pizza arrived, I was already struggling but my curiosity for this much-talked-about pizza base pushed me forward and I delved in.
The toppings were bursting with flavour and seasoned to perfection, and as for this much-deliberated base, yes, it is unique. I found it thin and light, and enjoyed the oven-baked nuances that come from a wood oven. This is the perfect pizza for picking up, folding and devouring.
I was replete. The pizza-fest continuing while we enjoyed the wine and listened to David’s stories of the birth of Mother in Copenhagen and his food philosophies.
I asked David, why London?
“London is a competitive market and we like competition, also when we looked at our clients in Copenhagen, most of them are from London, so it was a no-brainer.”
David’s concept of keeping his per client profit to a minimum keeps his guests happy. Why charge a fortune and alienate yourself from the masses, when you can keep prices reasonable and have a full restaurant. As far as I’m concerned, he has the balance just right.
As I managed to indulge on a heavenly tiramisu, I looked forward to whiling away autumnal nights in the cosy arches of Mother, enjoying her offerings and relishing in her wines. We will be back.
Majella
Restaurant Editor, Majella O’Connell