Once in a while you get an invitation to review somewhere that really catches your eye and a few weeks ago such an invitation arrived from Bistro Vadouvan at Putney.
We were informed that Bistro Vadouvan ‘combines classical French cuisine with the subtleties of Middle Eastern and Asian flavours, creating mouth-watering and original dishes’. I love classical French cuisine and I also love Middle Eastern and Asian flavours, but together?
So on one of London’s hottest days so far in 2017 I set off for Bistro Vadouvan to meet my lunch partner Daniel Nevitt, Chief Marketing Officer at Armourcoat to try out this most unlikely fusion of flavours.
Despite being a West London boy, I was not familiar with Putney Wharf, and on arrival was pleasantly surprised. Open space and lots of it, as well as a bird’s eye view of the Thames, an ideal lunch spot. Despite the glorious day the square that is central to Putney Wharf was sparsely populated for central London but ideal for diners like Daniel and I on the day. I suspect this lesser known London location will change soon and populate accordingly.
We were both very pleasantly surprised by the food, so I’ll let Daniel outline his experience first.
‘It was a privilege to join H&C News for the review of the new Bistro Vadouvan at Putney Wharf. The menu is a stunning mix of traditional French cuisine with Asian spices, the result creates light flavours with less butter and more seasoning. We met chef-patron Durga Misra and patron-maître d’ Uttam Tripathy, also owners of Hammersmith’s Potli Indian Restaurant, and discussed the new location and food on the outdoor terrace bathed in Summer sun. The restaurant is in a great waterfront location within the modern Putney Wharf Development, located on the River Thames with views of the iconic Putney Bridge.
Daniel Nevitt and Emily MansonWe shared snacks of Goat’s Curd Labneh with Pistachio and Olive Tapenade served with Flat Bread, together with Pate de campagne epices as we decided on the main courses. I chose Heritage Tomatoes with goat’s cheese followed by Glazed Salmon with Carrot and Harissa Yoghurt. Both were light and delicious served with a glass of red wine. The salmon in particular, barbecued in a clay oven and marinated with olive, cardamom and paprika, was perfect.’
We learned that Chef Patron Durga’s Michelin-starred career began in London in 2002 with a stint at the award-winning fish restaurant One – O – One in Knightsbridge before moving to the 2 Michelin starred Capital Hotel in Belgravia under Eric Chavot for five years. His career then took him to La Petit Maison before his first head chef position at Kitchen by Joel Antunes and then his second, returning to Chavot’s fold, to head up Brasserie Chavot in Mayfair.
To start I tried ‘Middle Eastern Beef Tartare, Smoked Aubergine’ – Seasoned Beef, Barbecued & Smoked Aubergine With Tahini Dressing & Flaked Almonds. I am a big fan of Beef Tartare and chef Durga’s was sublime.
This was followed by Cornish Seabass, Celeriac Hummus, Spiced Cauliflower, Parsley & Lemon Confit. The fish was seasoned beautifully and stood strong on the dish complimented but not over powered by the range of accompaniments that were equally well seasoned and complimentary.
For someone that dessert is often overlooked at lunchtime I saved the best for last. A Mango sorbet soup with basil seed. I think I ordered it to prove my instinct that French cuisine with Middle Eastern and Asian flavours would not always mix well. Totally wrong, this dessert was heavenly.
It was a very enjoyable afternoon in every way, great company, a lesson for my palate and a new restaurant location to re visit when given the opportunity.
Denis Sheehan, Publisher, Hospitality & Catering News
Patron-Maître d’ Uttam Tripathy Chef-Patron Durga Misra and H&C News’ Denis Sheehan30 Brewhouse Lane, Putney Wharf, Putney, London SW15 2JX
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