Thanks to a culmination of reveries and refurbishment, Old Windsor welcomes The Oxford Blue to its village this year. Originally a pair of gamekeeper’s cottages dating back to the 1800’s, Chef Patron and Proprietor Steven Ellis keeps one foot firmly planted in the tradition of quintessential British pubs, whilst allowing his other to explore. It wanders across England and Scotland, sourcing the finest ingredients to make up a menu which champions the best of British.
An alumnus of fine-dining establishments, including Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen and Michelin starred Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, has equipped Ellis with outstanding French cookery skills, yet it was his time spent at Andrew Pern’s Star Inn that provided the inspiration for this solo venture. Ellis’s dedication in the quest of exceptional home-grown produce elevates suppliers from the lowly ranks of privates to that of esteemed generals. Fish for Thought in Bodmin and Keltic Seafare in Dingwall (north of Inverness), is just a sample of The Oxford Blue’s specialist suppliers whose produce is beautifully showcased and interpreted. Enclosed by the Windsor Great Park, even The Oxford Blue’s sourced game is fit for royalty, whilst their own garden delivers herbs and edible flowers from the soil straight to diner’s plates.
In the wrong hands, such beautifully fine and fresh produce would be wasted, but the chef’s ability to draw out intriguing and compelling textures and tastes is a celebration in itself. Dishes of: Stout Glazed Short Rib, Beef fat Chips, Smoked Bone Marrow, Horseradish Hollandaise; and Braised Turbot, Cockles, Sea Vegetable, Seaweed Emulsions offer a glimpse into Ellis’s culinary direction. In charge of the pastry is Ellis’s partner Ami Blakey, meeting originally at The Star Inn 6 years ago, Ami has spent time honing her skills in some of London’s top restaurants; from 28-50 and The Ledbury, to Restaurant Gordon Ramsay. With a diverse menu of desserts including: Earl Grey Soufflé with Biscuit Ice Cream; and Chocolate with malted mousse, cocoa nibs and mascarpone sorbet, a sweet treat will certainly prove difficult to resist.
A recurrent theme of Ellis’s desire to surround himself with the best is emerging, and it isn’t solely limited to ingredients. Ellis and General Manager Daniel Crump first crossed paths at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, where Crump’s perfectionist nature was renowned and revered. Margriet Vandezande-Crump is the Restaurant Manager, an equally personable character whose passion for wine, spirits and beers has allowed her to create a unique yet sophisticated drinks list at the Oxford Blue. Years of experience in the industry between the husband-wife team includes Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, Petrus in Knightsbridge and Adam Byatt’s Trinity amongst others.
The complete renovation has granted the pub 60 covers, whilst a wine attic functions in lieu of a traditional cellar. As we greet the summer months, The Oxford Blue also welcomes an outside dinning terrace capable of hosting 16 extra covers. The interior is a cocktail of comfort and freshness, of which equal measures have been poured. Steven Ellis tops up the glass with a harmonious and captivating menu that’s built upon pillars of a carefully curated bank of suppliers, and his own experience, passion and exciting vision.
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