As Restaurant Openings and Reviews Editor I thought I would make time to let readers know about my favourite and most memorable restaurants experiences of 2016. It’s a very enjoyable task, full of immensely fond memories. Thanks to all the Chefs and restaurant staff that made my final cut and to those I visited that didn’t.
Hope you enjoy!
The Frog
I heard a great deal about this restaurant before I had the opportunity to visit. I recall the day I visited being absolutely miserable outside but the reception was warm and welcoming, as was my friend despite my being more than a tad late.
I really liked the atmosphere in this somewhat-industrial looking space, it made me feel happily nostalgic. It reminded me of the space at the bottom of my grandad’s garden that was frequented by the neighbour’s amphibians, not sure quite why it just did, and that’s good.
Despite being drenched when I arrived, both the friendly restaurant manager and my friend waiting patiently for me made me forget about the deluge outside.
My friend and I then opted for the tasting menu which was superb value for the amount of dishes and flavours that we were delivered, along with the matching combination of wines and paired libations.
The flavours were delicate to start, beginning with the Crab, Seaweed and Apple. Then the dishes became more complex, yet the textures were always beautifully balanced. The Veal, Garlic and Potato Skins with a finale of a deconstructed Tiramisu with Dry Ice were simply spectacular, the flavours intense but light on the palette.
The Typing Room
Well, this time I was really late for my friend. I had completed a shoot in the morning and thought I’d be clever and take a cab across London. This was not a wise decision I was so late that I had missed the opportunity to have the tasting menu. Luckily the staff had my friend to look after in my absence, and she had a Tommy’s Margarita waiting for me on arrival while the Prosecco relaxed gracefully in the ice bucket.
I am constantly trying to avoid too much bread, but when it’s warm, and accompanied with marmite butter, it’s quite simply impossible.
So, the courses I selected, first was Cauliflower, Grapes and Broccoli, vegetables cooked to perfection with that a slight crunch, with grapes that were a sweet contradiction to the earthy tones of the vegetables.
The mains of The Sweetbreads and Hake were delicate yet hearty and a perfect accompaniment to the very autumnal weather outside.
We finished with a Cheese Board and their amazing Rhubarb Chutney, dessert wines and port.
The service was impeccable and the staff were wonderfully tolerant of my tardiness.
Very recently The Typing Room received the AA’s 4 Rosette Award which is well deserved by Lee and team.
Outlaw’s at The Capital
My favourite Hotel Restaurant last year was Nathan Outlaw’s ‘Outlaw’s at the Capital’.
The flavours are clean, presented beautifully and flavoured to perfection.
When I met Head Chef Tom Brown he told me that the specials depend on whatever the fisherman had caught that morning and I was lucky enough to try the Falmouth Oysters with Pickled Cucumber Chutney, Green Tabasco Sauce and Fresh Lemon. This was my first experience of oysters of this character and it was a memorable one for all the right reasons.
The Grey Mullet, Chicory Tart and Pink Grapefruit was a delight to the palate. The fish and grapefruit flavours worked beautifully in contradiction, crowned with the consistency of the pastry.
I also had the privilege of experiencing the Lobster Risotto with Orange and Basil which was delectable, the sharpness of the orange and the luxury of the lobster flattering each other in every mouthful.
I relished in the Vanilla Ice Cream Sandwich, Pear and Ginger Beer Sorbet, with ginger crumb and raisins. This collaboration of textures and flavours was simply exquisite. I was happily replete!
Ceviche Soho
I didn’t make it to Barrafina this year unfortunately, but I did manage to find a little gem in Soho called Ceviche.
I prefer to sit at the bar so I can soak up the atmosphere whilst spying on Soho, and I’m closer to the amazing Pisco Sours.
The staff all appear un-intimidatingly cool and most of the men don some kind of glorious facial hair.
I always order the Don Ceviche. The Sea Bass melts in the mouth and the raw red onions provide an eruptive burst of flavour. The sauce is a perfect balance of bitterness, sweetness and heat. I frequently need a teaspoon of the leftover jus.
Another favourite is the Pulpazo, The Grilled Octopus and Chorizo. The combination of textures and flavours are perfect. The marinade and the spice of the chorizo is complimented by the subtle flavours of the octopus.
When it comes to the desserts, if there’s two of us with a sweet tooth, we normally order all four.
Chiltern Firehouse
Another venue that I enjoyed sitting at the bar at is Chiltern Firehouse.
I do enjoy sitting close to the kitchen. I love to watch the chefs at work and even when I can’t see the kitchen, sometimes much to the annoyance of my companions and the staff, I will try and get in to have a peek at it. I’m fascinated by its workings and I must confess it’s become a bit of an obsession with me.
On my most recent visit, my friend and I discovered a bottle of Majella on the wine list. It seemed appropriate.
We enjoyed The Crab Doughnuts (as it was doughnut week), the sweetness of them and the gentle flavours and textures of the crab worked wonderfully together.
I was intrigued the by Wood Oven Grilled Cauliflower. I was wondering if it would suffice as a main course. It certainly did. Grilled Cauliflower, Vegetable XO, Winter Truffle & Sour Cream. The crunchiness of the cauliflower was enhanced by the tenderness and flavours of the other vegetables. The winter truffle and sour cream added a glorious punch.
The pastry chefs Adam Degg and his assistant Ryan came to talk to us to explain all the various techniques and thought processes that go into creating and plating the desserts. That was a true highlight for me.
My favourite savoury dishes there have been the Lobster and Crab Omelette, Potatoes, Chervil and Coral Mayo, The Burrata, Broccoli and Onions, The Foie Gras Terrine, Pecans, Smoked Grapes and Iberico Ham and The Pork with Handmade Crisps.
I look forward to returning this year to try out their new menu.
Street XO
My most recent favourite, before I get to my absolute favourite of 2016, is Street XO in Old Burlington St, Mayfair.
I had read about this location in an article mentioning that a 3 Michelin star restaurant based in Milan was heading to London. The attitude and passion of the Head Chef David Muñoza intrigued me.
Once again, to satisfy my obsession we sat by the bar. My aperitif arrived with raw shrimp on a stick. I was directed to be brave and suck on the torso and then have a sip of the cocktail. I WAS brave and I wasn’t disappointed.
The menu looked exciting and was adorned with images of the skulls and skin and animals. It was eccentric and fantastic.
We ordered a few dishes each and soaked up the atmosphere while we waited. It reminded me of a Dr Seuss movie and I took great delight in the chef whites in the style of straitjackets.
Despite the appearance of artistic madness, the dishes were plated in a sharp and precise manner. Each heavenly component painstakingly positioned in a flawless manner. The finished dishes were striking and brilliant.
We enjoyed the Orly Prawns “fried upside-down” with Mayonnaise and Yuzu, the striking and tender Robata-Pigeon, the unconventional King Crab with Sherry Spaghetti and Crab and Champagne Emulsion.
My favourite dish here was the Galician Grilled Octopus. It was incredible! The tenderness of the octopus combined with the flavours of the tomatillo and green apple mole absolutely blew my mind. The delicately plated enoki mushrooms were the perfect collaboration to the sweet and sour of the mole smeared octopus. The whole dish was exquisite, I was almost speechless.
The dessert appeared in a pink trumpet shaped chalice and was devoured and enjoyed far too quickly with spoons and a straw. An impressive mixture of sweet, sour and popping candy.
There was three other major highlights of 2016
The first of them was sampling the infamous Pig’s Trotter by Pierre Koffmann on the penultimate night of the Mayfair restaurant. I actually enjoyed it and I was lucky enough to have the man himself sign my copy of his book.
The second was meeting James Martin at the Playboy Club in London. It was a 5-course tasting menu with wine pairing and as James mentioned, it was certainly not void of butter. The dessert of White Chocolate and Whisky Croissant Butter Pudding was opulent and delicious.
The third was having the pleasure to meet and sit in on a masterclass by The Roca Brothers Joan, Josep and Jordi. This was one of my first assignments with H&C News.
I was privileged enough to watch them discuss their philosophies and theories. What inspired them and how those inspirations were translated into their dishes. The brothers were a pleasure to watch and wonderful to meet. It was a fantastic and enlightening afternoon.
Ultimately we reach my favourite restaurant of 2016.
The Dairy in Clapham
The Deer was juicy and tender. Certainly one of the best I have ever tasted
I have visited The Manor and Paradise Row but The Dairy has always stood out to me for quality, menu creativity, value, atmosphere, service and high standards with sustainable produce.
They always hit it just right with portion sizes. The collaboration of flavours are always exciting and never overwhelming or overpowering. The food textures are complimentary. The next course always enticing. Each dish unique and alluring, and the presentation is always striking. They have never disappointed in any department.
Some of my favourite dishes there have been The Baron Bigod with Truffles and Honey, The Delicia Pumpkin, The Rye Tart with Stawley Cheese and the Applewood Smoked Eel with Garlic Miso.
The desserts are exquisite, and often accompanied by an espresso martini. I always end up asking to take home a couple of their Ice Cream Honey wafers. They are incredible and the honey comes from the bees on their roof (I’d love to visit the roof, if you’re reading this Robin).
I always seem to miss Richard Falk (Winner of the Young British Foodie Award 2016 Chef Category) but Robin and Luis and the rest of the staff are always friendly and eager.
I look forward to revisiting The Dairy in the spring to see what the season inspires…
So that’s it for 2016 and very much looking forward to visiting those that will make this feature in the year ahead.
If you think you know any contenders just let me know by calling 01344 637912 or drop me an email moconnell@handcnews.com
Majella
Restaurant Openings and Reviews Editor, Majella O’Connell