The halcyon days of the independent Italian restaurant are behind us it seems, as the prevalence for brands and chains usurps the high street restaurants.
So how refreshing is it to discover a genuine owner/chef managed Italian restaurant in Reading. Pepe Sale has been run by Toni Sale for 18 years and still makes its own flatbread and pasta and I was fortunate enough to be invited for lunch.
Pepe Sale is on the Hexagon side of Reading. Whilst not perhaps the most loved quarters of Reading currently, Toni continues to serve his many loyal customers with consistently high quality Italian fayre with a Sardinian twist.
Greeted by Marco, Toni’s long serving front of house, with comfortable familiarity the classically presented Italian restaurant has an easy feel.
The beer is not just Peroni but Moretti, which to my taste has a more savoury and thirst quenching style – lesser seen than the omni-present brand. Birra Moretti is re-assuringly lesser known.
At the table Marco brings some Pane Carasau, a Sardinian flatbread baked on the premises. This was the shepherd’s food in times gone by, which is made simply with durum wheat flour, water, salt and yeast. Because it is twice baked it maintains freshness for longer that more leavened bread cannot.
This ‘long life’ bread meant that the shepherd’s could tend their herd’s for days at a time, hunting and gathering along the way, however knowing that they had stocks of the Pane to rely on.
I don’t know about you, but I find the traditional bread basket served as you sit down to be unnecessary baggage. My waistline definitely does not need nor deserve it. It hampers the enjoyment of the main event as it is mostly unremarkable.
Frankly Pane Carasau is a much more civilised way to be greeted at table, than with stodgy bread – garlic or otherwise.
It is crisp lightness is perfect for just nibbling on that whets the appetite and takes the edge of any voracious hunger so that you can enjoy the conversation and the surroundings.
What I loved about Pepe Sale is that Toni still makes his own pasta – everyday. Barring the best of Italian restaurants, how many Italian restaurants make their own pasta everyday? Fresh home-made pasta has a unique feel and smell unmatched by any other food experience.
On this day Toni’s specials board sported a ravioli with a seasonal favourite of porcini mushrooms. That is a partnership made in heaven – fresh pasta and wild porcini funghi – get’s me excited just thinking about it.
I was also pleased to be offered a glass of Colucci’s Prosecco – a step to one side from the regular Italian fizz. Colucci’s is a genuine Italian brand of this now famous and must-have sparkling wine region. The problem with Prosecco is that it has become almost anonymous – yes, a must have in any shop or restaurant, but it is just the name of an Italian region not an identifiable and therefore repeatable brand. Colucci’s Prosecco identifies this – a ‘piccolo’ fresher than many with a light bubbly lemon crispness. Only served in on-trade it is definitely one to look out for.
Sardinia is a big island second only to Sicily, but bigger than Cyprus and whilst the first thought might be of sea-food, in actual fact the interior is the basis of food for Sardinians traditionally.
So on the weekend they serve Suckling Pig, which Toni has fought hard over the years to secure supply of. He now has a regular supply from the north of England and if I was there on a Friday or Saturday evening that’s what I would be having.
Alternatively another Sardinian hunter’s favourite is Wild Boar – cinghiale in Italian, which again has graced Pepe Sale’s menu for a long time.
Mallorreddos is the customary pasta from this sizable island and produced daily by Toni and served with classic Sardinian sausage. And nothing could be more satisfying than a plate of Mallorreddos served with Sardinian red wine from Sella e Mosca. The islanders keep hidden some excellent wines both red and white which are well worth hunting out.
On this occasion and because it as lunch, I had Sea Bass, another classic which is beautifully served, delicately cooked with a light tomato and garlic sauce served with some perfectly cooked meaty mussels.
And for dessert how could you miss the Seadas – sweet cheese and honey another hidden gem from the island.
It is difficult to find different, it seems, these days, but when you do they are really worth seeking out. If in Reading hunt out Pepe Sale and make sure you find the Sardinian roots of this menu – you will be well rewarded with fresh honest flavours and satisfying dishes.
Pepe Sale – 3 Queens Walk , Reading RG1 7GF 01189597700
Colucci’s Prosecco – Marce Colucci – marce@coluccis.co.uk
Alistair Morrell
Hospitality & Catering News, Wine Content Executive