On the advent of the recent severe earthquake and, coincidentally, the new release of 2016 wines from New Zealand it is a good time to reflect on the continuing success of the New Zealand industry and in particular Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc and other New Zealand wines. Do they still warrant a place on a wine list?
New Zealand produces less than 1%* of the world’s production volume in one of the most southerly growing regions of the world 94%* of which operate under independently audited sustainability programmes. According to Wines of New Zealand sustainability is ‘integral to the ongoing success of New Zealand Wine’.
In 2015 the wine industry was worth over $NZ1.4Bn to their economy, an ‘all too rare success story’ according to the New Zealand Institute for Economic Research.
Marlborough is the most significant wine making region, which sits to the north east of the South Island of New Zealand and has continued to dominate the production and sales of wines from the country. It has 66%* of vineyard planted in the whole of New Zealand which is the same amount as Sauvignon planted in the vineyards across New Zealand. The grape constitutes 87%* of the wine exported from the country in 2015. There is no doubt that Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough has made its mark across the wine drinking world.
So in terms of availability and continuity this is no longer a tiny craft industry albeit fragmented into many small pieces. There are now over 700 members of the NZ Winegrowers, quite a number for a population of 4m people.
But that may not be good enough in itself to list this aromatic, gooseberry like variety on a wine list. Consumers have still got to want it enough to pay a premium.
If the Premium on-trade is anything to go by then this is a good market still. Liberty, the on-trade wine wholesaler, reported earlier this year that value is growing at 9.4%** ahead of volume by over 3% points, and further white wine is outgrowing wine in this sector.
Sauvignon is the ‘hot variety’ in 3 of 4 of Liberty’s premium sectors – Wine Bars, Hotels and Gastropubs. However New Zealand does not feature as the best selling or ‘hot country’ in any of those sectors in the same report. This suggests that more needs to be done in giving waiters, wine waiters, bar tenders and sommeliers more resources to tell the New Zealand story.
What is certainly apparent is that there are some stunning wines coming from the other varieties and regions of New Zealand. The growth of the other regions now shows that they make up 34% of all the plantings, and whilst 13% of those are Hawkes Bay that still leaves 20% in other regions. There are great wines and stories to tell from those other regions.
Pinot Gris can be absolutely stunning from the Kiwis. It is now available in commercial quantities and represents 6% of NZ Wine production, but only 2% exported – there is room for the UK to take more. Most consumers don’t realise that whilst this is the same grape variety as Pinot Grigio the difference in the Kiwi style (to the neutral dry white style often produced in Europe) is substantial. The NZ style is a passion fruit, lychee fruity and, to my mind, authentic style. If you were to pick Pinot Gris (Grigio) off the vine you would recognise it immediately as an aromatic variety and you would be able to identify those aromatics in the finished wine. That’s how it comes as a freshly picked grape. The wines often have a delicious extra weight to them. Taking these two things together they make for a very satisfying drink.
It may require some greater creativity in selling from the list, and taking the educational approach may be the most rewarding one. List a Pinot Gris and a Pinot Grigio side by side on a wine list. The Pinot Gris is likely to be more expensive, so it represents an excellent opportunity to trade up in exchange for a little education.
“Same grape variety, if you like Grigio, try Gris” this gives serving staff the ideal route in to suggest the alternative, engage and entertain.
Pinot Noir has had some similar success in the market. It is becoming a grape of choice across London bars by the glass and a 48%* increase in hotels. The Kiwi versions after a slow start are now securing some excellent critic reviews as a lighter style, but ‘serious’ red and command premiums often with great hand made stories.
With 8%* of production in NZ and just 5%* exported then there are good opportunities to do a deal and secure continuity.
As wine in the UK becomes a more luxury purchase with prices on the up and consumer behaviours changing then the New Zealand sell is an easy one – often producer led, grower stories, personalised and owned creating a real bond for the hard worked consumer, backed by green principles, sustainable practices and a pioneering spirit with styles that are current.
Marlborough Sauvignon is still seismic news, any wine list that is seeking to earn its keep should include a Marlborough Sauvignon. From a contribution to business perspective it more than earns its keep. Go a little further and extend the interest and there are a number of other varieties, regions and stories that leap out.
**Liberty Wines Premium On-trade report 2016
*Source New Zealand Wine New Release tasting 2016
Images Credit: NZ Winegrowers
Alistair Morrell
Hospitality & Catering News, Wine Content Executive