It was an easy decision to accept an invitation to a Chateau Mouton Rothschild tasting at the magnificent Spencer House in London. Add the fact that it is to be conducted by Philippe Dhalluin, Mouton Rothschild’s winemaker and MD, and the invitation is truly irresistible.
Spencer House has apparently enjoyed a thorough programme of restoration. No such process, clearly, had been needed by Chateau Mouton Rothschild: as Philippe Dhalluin guided us through the selected wines of the Chateau itself as well as Chateau Clerc Milon and Chateau d’Armailhac, it became clear from the intense concentration and appreciation on display that this was an occasion relished by buyers and connoisseurs alike.
Unsurprisingly, it reinforced our awareness of the strong link between fine wines and good food: these wines both complement and grace dining, adding greatly to occasion and cuisine. Their high reputation and occasional ‘complexity’ should not be a deterrent, but rather a challenge to enjoy: once experienced, diners and drinkers will look forward to further encounters with wines of such quality.
Château d’Armailhac
A flight of three Chateau D’Armailhac wines opened proceedings. A Grand Cru Classe of the 1855 classification, Chateau d’Armailhac is a neighbour of Chateau Mouton Rothschild in Pauillac and has 70 hectares planted with 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot.
The wine is matured in oak barrels and is described as combining finesse and elegance with the power and tannins of Pauillac’s great wines. The 2009, in particular, attracted top comments and was reckoned to be nearly ready to drink, whilst the 1999 is mature and should not wait any longer for drinking.
Château Clerc Milon
Also a Grand Cru Classe of the 1855 classification, Chateau Clerc Milon has 41 hectares overlooking the Gironde estuary in the commune of Pauillac. With a superb terroir, the vineyard is a close neighbour of two First Growths. Most of the vines are over 50 years old and represent a genetic treasure house.
Baron Philippe de Rothschild purchased the vineyard in 1970, since when the estate has experienced a renaissance, becoming a ‘new benchmark for the Medoc’, a conclusion that appeared to be shared at the tasting, with favourable comments all around.
The 2005 was assessed as ready for drinking now and in the coming years, whilst the 1998 is already highly regarded – superb – but will continue to improve. As for the 2014, it has been described by John Stimpfig of Decanter as:
“My hot tip for a superb classed growth claret punching above its weight is Château Clerc Milon. This for me was the biggest surprise of the tasting. The 2014 is already dreamily delicious. Sweet raspberry coulis, roasted coffee, cream and juicily ripe and balanced, this was a joy.”
Chateau Mouton Rothschild
Chateau Mouton Rothschild, a Premier Cru Classe since 1970, comprises 83 hectares of vines in Pauillac, planted with Cabernet Sauvignon (81%), Merlot (15%), Cabernet Franc (3%), and Petit Verdot (1%).
As anticipated, the flight of 1996, 2005 and 2014 met the high expectations of the tasting assembly.
The 2014 already displays the strong aromas of berries, and displays the early, developing signs of an exceptional wine.
In contrast, the 2005 is dark and deep in colour, with a complex nose that presents and combines oak, toast and vanilla with intense, wild berry fruit. The palate displays rich and powerful tannins combined with the blackcurrant and blackberry flavours that deliver fullness of flavour.
As for the 1996, those present who could find it in their cellar were regarded with envy: a classic that delivers great depth of flavour with ‘refined and silky tannins’ – a wine to cherish and seek out!
The Wines from the Mouton-Rothschild Tasting
Chateau d’Armailhac 2014, 2009 & 1999
Chateau Clerc Milon 2014, 2005, 1998
Petit Mouton Rothschild 2014, 2010, 2005
Chateau Mouton Rothschild 2014, 2005 and 1996
To read tasting notes in more detail, visit Château Mouton Rothschild
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