H&C News recently published a recipe from Dom Clarke, the new head chef at The Ryebeck, Bowness-on-Windermere, where he has already made a major impact with his new menus at the two AA Rosette restaurant in the stylish Arts and Crafts country house hotel overlooking Lake Windermere.
Recently visiting the area, we were delighted to have the opportunity to experience for ourselves the dishes Dom is creating at The Ryebeck. In particular, to sample dishes from both his ‘The Classic Menu’, populated with firm British favourites, and his Eastern influenced, ‘The Ryebeck Menu’.
About The Ryebeck
Not only a wonderful country house with magnificent views, The Ryebeck (above) has been transformed into a contemporary and luxurious venue, with its refurbished and upgraded bedrooms, elegant lounge and superb, spacious new restaurant, which truly provides an environment in which to enjoy indulging, even challenging, your taste buds.
The menu
From the start, diners are invited to sample tastes and combinations of tastes that many will not previously have experienced.
The canapés, for example, introduced Chicken liver parfait éclair, Cheesy bean quaver, and Onion popcorn: intriguing, and a clear indication of delights to come.
The amuse bouche that greeted us on sitting down was Potato mousse with leek: light, delicately flavoured, delicious.
And the menus themselves continue to challenge diners with difficult choices.
Starters
Sashimi Grade Tuna on a rock; Chicken, pea puree, peas, broad beans, shallot, pickle, bacon espuma, hazelnut, truffle oil; or Beetroot, roasted golden beetroot, cake, candied carpaccio, cocoa nib, horseradish – all tempting options, but which to choose?
After much havering, the Beetroot was selected and proved an excellent choice: the combinations all worked really well, with the beetroot and surprisingly gentle horseradish complementing each other beautifully, and with the cake introducing a different but effective texture to the dish.
As good a starter as you could seek, but we resolved to return and try the Chicken next time!
Mains
Here, my companion selected the Cumbrian Lamb Rump and Confit Croustillant, sweet potato, hen of the woods, king oyster mushrooms, popcorn cress with black rice jus – it was, quite simply, superb. You would expect the lamb to be good, but for flavour and tenderness it met the highest standards, accompanied by more flavours and textures that complemented and enhanced every mouthful.
By way of contrast, the Market Fish of the Day – fresh from the local supplier – was Sea Trout. Here, the chef took a simpler approach, allowing the delicate flavour of the sea trout to be complemented by delicious pickled mushrooms.
The Ryebeck prides itself on the presentation of every dish: pictured above is Chicken wing, pea puree, fresh peas, fevs, bacon aspora, black truffle, hazelnut malto, pureed shallot and truffle oil.
Desserts
Again, the choices were difficult: Chocolate and mint, aerated milk chocolate, dark chocolate mousse, roasted white crumb, chocolate shards, mint ice cream and mint anglaise (pictured above, and definitely one for the next visit!); or Banana and custard, banana bread, caramelised banana, custard sherbet and ice cream?
But the choice fell on the exotic promise of Tahitian Vanilla Panacotta, roasted peach, pistachio, yellow man, and thyme honey. As with other dishes, you might worry that so many flavours would conflict with instead of complement each other? We wondered, but were quickly delighted: the consistency and flavour of the pannacotta was just right, the pistachio added crunch and texture, and the thyme honey introduced a new dimension and flavour.
Our conclusion
The spacious restaurant at The Ryebeck provides the stylish ambience that enables diners to relax and enjoy the menu choices and dishes presented for their enjoyment. And the high quality of service matched the expectations raised by this venue.
Yes, it feels that there is a degree of experimentation – even risk? – about some of the dishes, and some of the ingredients, flavours and textures will surprise and then please diners. But this is a chef whose dishes both met and exceeded our expectations, and in whom diners quickly have confidence.
As indicated above, it was a genuine dilemma for every course to decide between the options and, in quiet moments, we still debate those choices. But the good news is that we look forward to our next visit, and the opportunity to try what we missed – or, more likely, to be tempted by new and irresistible choices.
The Ryebeck Country House & Restaurant, Lyth Valley Road, Bowness-on-Windermere, Cumbria, LA23 3JP
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