For over two decades, Tony Kitous has been Britain’s most passionate provider and advocate of contemporary Lebanese and North African food. H & C News was pleased, therefore, to meet Tony recently, learn more about his operation and plans, and sample some of the food about which he speaks with such passion and eloquence.
On the basis of what we tasted, and the bustling restaurants we have since visited, it’s clear that Tony’s advocacy – and delivery of an eating and hospitality ‘experience’ that clearly pleases – is winning over increasing numbers of UK customers. No doubt operators operating in this very competitive sector of food service are watching the progress of Comptoir Libanais closely…
Kitous’ restaurants were the first in London to merge traditional Arabic cooking with the easy contemporary eating to be found in the expanding network of Comptoir Libanais restaurants.
And. whilst his London restaurants Levant, Pasha and Kenza put glamour into Middle Eastern cuisine, it is Comptoir Libanais that has begun introducing Lebanese food to the high street, providing relaxed canteen style dining with light Arabic cooking, served in the friendly and accessible way demanded by many customers today.
“My dream is to see the day Lebanese food becomes as popular as Italian food.”
Recognising the popularity and wide availability of Italian food in the UK, Tony’s aim was and is to establish Lebanese and Middle Eastern cuisine in the UK in a similar way – creating consciousness and understanding amongst UK customers. Of course, there is a very long way to go before this can be achieved, but Comptoir Libanais has been taking successful strides along the way.
Beginning in 1993…
Kitous’ first foray into the restaurant business came at the age of 22 and in 1993, when he opened his first restaurant, Baboon. He drew on his cultural heritage to create Levant in 2000, the restaurant which raised the profile of Middle Eastern restaurant culture in the London scene, and in 2004 he opened Levantine.
His next move was the acquisition at the end of 2005 of Pasha from Richard Caring of Caprice Holdings, transforming it into the most opulent and seductive restaurant of its kind in the capital. He then launched Kenza, a feast of Middle Eastern craftsmanship and rich design, in the City of London in 2007.
Comptoir Libanais
The first Comptoir Libanais opened at Westfield Shopping Centre in November 2008, with four more following in London. Further openings include Duke of York Square in Chelsea (pictured below), Bluewater in Kent, and in the London airports – with more to come.
Tony’s vision for Comptoir Libanais was based on much more than the food. As the founder, he wanted to ensure the design and styling of each restaurant was inviting, simple and atmospheric. From the counter displays, to the lighting and furnishings, everything is devised by Tony to reflect the dining style that is at the heart of Lebanese hospitality and culture. He says:
“I wanted to make it fresh and modern, yet welcoming all the same. There’s a little touch of the souk, with embroidered handbags from Marrakech and ingredients to cook at home, but the ambience is light and airy. I want to see people enjoying the experience for a pot of mint tea with friends, a quick tabbouleh and hommos, or a more leisurely evening meal. You don’t have to sacrifice comfort, style or authenticity of food just because the dining is casual.”
Sharing – and healthy – food
The food is meant for sharing, so there’s plenty of choice, with everything from dips to mezze bites, savoury flatbreads, tagines, wraps, salads, pastries and cakes – they even bake their own Moroccan bread.
Middle Eastern dining is a social affair where dishes are selected and shared with friends. Customers can forget the knife and fork – mezze is finger food – and select a mezze platter and some wraps for a picnic outside, or in their own office. Alternatively, they can take a couple of richly-flavoured tagines home to pass off as their own cooking!
And Tony points to just how healthy Lebanese food is: “The food of Lebanon is so healthy, I even lived on charcoal grilled meats and mezze for over a year whilst training and preparing for my 250 kilometre marathon – and lost 60 lbs in wight!”
Comptoir Libanais: A Feast of Lebanese-Style Home Cooking
Last September, Random House published Comptoir Libanais: A Feast of Lebanese-Style Home Cooking, showcasing just how easy, healthy and accessible Lebanese food is for everyone.
Containing eighty recipes, each one with a full-page photograph, the Comptoir Libanais cookbook makes achieving a great result easy at home. Tony Kitous’ recipes combine fresh vibrant vegetable dishes with simple grills, flat breads, grains, herb salads and dips. Pastries are richly flavoured and delicate, made with syrups and spices. If you want a quick snack for yourself, or an extraordinary celebration feast, all the how-to you’ll need is here. In Tony’s words:
“Look, I am not a chef and I don’t want to pretend that I am. I’m a self-taught, passionate home cook who adores Lebanese food. My love of Lebanese food is very simple. I enjoy sharing good food: food that’s healthy, delicious, and above all, simple and honest. And that’s what this book is about. I wanted to share my passion, and I honestly believe that once you get close to Lebanese food, you’ll want to share it with your family and friends, and you’ll get hooked on it too.
“You don’t need to be a chef to cook Comptoir Libanais dishes. This is food to enjoy: it’s simple, it’s fun and it’s easy to make yourself. It’s a way of eating that I hope you’ll want to embrace and make part of your lifestyle. It’s friendly, it’s often vegetarian, and above all it’s affordable.”