H & C News was intrigued by a recent invitation to visit Mews of Mayfair, which describes itself as ‘one of Mayfair’s best-kept secrets’, and had not previously crossed our wandering path. Situated as it is in a small courtyard just off New Bond Street, it’s no surprise that it’s not obvious to the ‘passing trade’ – but it proved well worth taking the time to track it down.
Not just a brasserie
You would expect a restaurant located in the heart of Mayfair to be smart and stylish, but this is not just a restaurant – it’s an ‘establishment’ that now encompasses not only the Brasserie but a Chef’s Dining Room for private dining and events, ground floor bar, basement lounge and bar, La Cave for private dining and tasting, an Art Gallery – and there’s more to come. And then there’s the outside drinking and dining area – which must be delightful in warm weather, but requires attractive monogrammed blankets for the survival of guests in winter weather conditions – as we witnessed!
So – food, drink and ambience to suit your mood and company, decorated with style and – yes – an element of panache, even eccentricity which certainly made it both attractive and interesting on this first visit.
The British Brasserie
Reopened in December 2012 after extensive refurbishment, the Brasserie is clearly proving attractive: there was a relaxed feel to the full room, with the subdued buzz of conversation demonstrating that guests were able both to talk and eat in comfort – unlike some restaurants, no need here to talk loudly in order to be heard.
The ‘New British’ menu ranges widely to suit every taste, from nibbles to light bites or salads, to substantial 12oz Rib-Eye or T-bone steaks. And it hits some notable high spots with its emphasis on responsibly sourced fish and meats from all over the country: oysters from Colchester, hand dived scallops from Rye, Buffalo Mozzarella from LaverstockFarm, Tamworth bacon, Cornish hake, Herdwick lamb…the list goes on.
Highlights of lunch for H & C News included the Wild Mushroom Soup with garlic and rosemary sippets: rich, creamy and full of flavour, perfect on a cold day! Main course of Rump of Herdwick lamb with roasted root vegetables: a substantial serving of tender lamb, well accompanied by ‘Mews Champ’ mashed potatoes with a difference. And to conclude, the Blueberry Cheesecake, which came highly recommended – apparently a family recipe passed down to the Chef – and lived up to its reputation: light and full of flavour, it disappeared remarkably quickly at the end of a full lunch!
For wine, we were impressed by the variety and depth of the wine list, of which a good selection is available by the glass. The house white is a very acceptable Chenin Blanc from South Africa, whilst we also sampled a Malbec ‘Selection’ from Terrazas de Los Andes, Argentina which proved to have the depth and character to perfectly complement the Herdwick lamb.
Finally, and irresistibly, we were tempted and privileged to try the excellent selection of dessert wines. The Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos from the Royal Tokaji Company, Hungary was as fully flavoured and excellent as we expected, but the ‘surprise’ was the Don PX Gran Reserva, Bodegas Toro Albala, Spain 1979 with deep and intense flavours that burst on the tongue – definitely worth experiencing if you get the chance.
Impressive but not intimidating
As you might expect in Mayfair, The Mews is certainly an impressive establishment: it works its way round Lancashire Court with a full range of options for guests, all delivered with style and panache.
It is not, however, stylish in the sense of intimidating: the decor and ambience is not ‘grand’ or formal, and the staff are friendly, well-informed and attentive without being intrusive. The food, too, proved enjoyable and varied, whilst guests were visibly relaxed and at ease.
As a venue for special occasions – it’s been used by business and public figures ranging from Santander to Elton John, Kylie Minogue and Vic Reeves – it works well, and for dining with family, friends or business colleagues it’s to be recommended.
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